What Is Organic Agriculture?
Agriculture is going through a major transformation across the world and Philippines is no exception. Since 1950s modern agriculture contributed significantly in raising the land productivity. However, its side effects became a cause of concern. Consumers became aware of the harmful effects of pesticides and chemicals used in modern agriculture. Organic agriculture emerged as a feasible option to concerns related to increasing contamination in food.
Organic agriculture respects nature and its vitality. It aims to create an ecologically safe system of food production. It is a comprehensive approach that aims to create sustainable eco-system, safe food, animal welfare and better livelihood opportunities for farmers.
Organic agriculture covers all kinds of food and fiber production system and can be defined as chemical free farming system with an objective to produce food of high nutritional value.
Benifits of Organic Agriculture
- Organic food reduces health risks by keeping harmful chemicals and pesticides out of the food.
- Organic food tastes better and contains high nutritional value.
- Oraganic farming create congruent balance between crop production and animal husbandry.
- Organic farming preserve the long-term fertility of soil through the sustainable production system.
- Organic farming reducing pesticide use and minimizing agriculture’s impact on the ecosystem.
What is Vermi Compost Fertilizer?
Vermicomposting is chiefly composting with worms. In nature, all organic matter eventually decomposes. In Vermi composting, worms are fed with decomposed matter and the organic material will pass through the earthworm gut resulting in worm castings (worm manure). Vermicompost, enriches soil in most natural organic manner, and also increases the quality, fertility and mineral content of the soil. Unlike chemical fertilizers that destroy beneficial microorganisms, the organic fertilizer is completely harmless & provide rich organic soil that is best for plants.
Hence, Vermi composting involves harnessing of earthworms for cleaning up the environment. In the process, earthworms and microbes work together and produce vermi-compost.
Vermi compost contains more than 8 kinds of useful microbial bacterium groups (over 600 million per gram). So it can supply all nutrition elements needed by the variety of plants. Use of Bio-organic fertilizer will reduce the use of harmful chemical fertilizers; give higher yield and improve soil fertility.
Benefits of Vermi Compost Fertilizer
- Promotes faster growth of plants, increases crop yield with less irrigation.
- Produces crops with a better taste, and lasting quality, without toxic residues.
- Earthworms produce no toxins and carry no diseases.
- Earthworms help neutralize soil acidity and reduce waste volume by up to 50%.
- Improves groundwater recharge and reduces depletion of groundwater.
- Reduces soil salinization and soil erosion .
- Lessens pollution, as chemicals are not used.
- Increases export of agricultural products with lower pesticide residues.
- Lessens wasteland formation.
- Lowers risk of crop loss due to pest attack.
- Vermi composting waste produces no pollution or unusable residue. - It is an excellent soil conditioner due to its balanced nutrients and beneficial microbes contents
- Rich in both macro and micro nutrients such as Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potash, Calcium, Magnesium and Sulphur
- It helps moisture retention in soil; thus a superb choice for pot plants and trees at your backyard
- Help to decompose organic matter in the soil
- Plants are more resistant to disease and pest
- No over application as it does not burn plant root
For product information you can email us at emixfactory@yahoo.com or you can reach us thru Smart Mobile Phone 0919-5332202
Our Products:
Vermicompost Tea Brewer: 50 liters, 30 liters and 18 liters capacity
Vermicompost Class A Packaging: 1bag (50 kgs) P300.00
Vermicompost Class B Packaging: 1bag (45 kgs) P200.00
EarthWorm (African Nightcrawlers): P350.00 per kilo
DELGRO Microbial Inoculant Organic Fertilizers (500 grams): P500.00
LET’S US WORK TOGETHER TO SAVE OUR ENVIRONMENT. PLEASE SUPPORT ORGANIC FARMING.
The Compost Tea Brewer system was designed for the farmers or grower. It was developed to provide an organic solution for caring for our plants and soil to reduce the need for harmful pesticides and fertilizers. It works by inoculating the plants and soil with the necessary microbes and nutrients, often lacking in an urban setting. It provides a safe, natural, and totally organic environment for our plants and soil!
Frequently Asked QuestionsWhat is compost tea?
Compost tea is an aerobic water solution that has extracted the microbe population from compost along with the nutrients. In simple terms, it is a concentrated liquid created by a process to increase the numbers of beneficial organisms as an organic approach to plant/soil care.
Why use compost tea?
Compost tea has many benefits. It will make our environment healthier and safer and will put the microbe biology back onto the plants and soil. It recreates the natural environment that plants have evolved through millions of years to thrive.
How to start the process?
Fill the agitator barrels with 2 kilos of Vermicast then pour untreated water up to the level as marked on the bucket. After 24 hours of brewing add 1 kilo brown sugar or mascubado or molasses to the water in the bucket (not inside agitator barrels) This will serve as food for the microbes.
How long does it take to make compost tea in a 30 liter brewer?
It takes 48 to 72 hours by plugging-in the motors.
When do I apply compost tea?
The tea must be used within 8 hours after you have turned the motor off and it has finished brewing. The best time to apply in the day is early morning not later than 9am or late afternoon not earlier than 4pm. Hot day time temperatures are not as effective.
Is compost tea brewed concentrated?
Yes. Dilute 1 liter concentrated compost tea with 15 liters untreated water making a total volume of 16 liters. Dilution can be adjusted from 1:15 to 1:10, 1:5 depending on the plants condition (diseased plant may need higher concentration)
How often should I apply it?
For foliar disease prevention, you can spray the plants just before you would usually have the onset of disease occurring. Then you would spray every 10 days to 2 weeks for about a month. You should monitor what you are seeing on your plants to determine if further spray is needed. For soil application we recommend two times a year. For promoting growth, you could spray weekly or twice a month during the growing season. Frequency and scheduling of applications will vary depending on individual environmental conditions.
How do I know if I have applied enough?
You can't apply too much, although normally you would try to spray both sides of the leaf with the liquid dripping off the leaf. Total coverage is very important. Whatever drips off the leaves will actually help the soil.
How do I apply the compost tea to plants\soil.
You can use a sprinkler can for applying to the soil or use a backpack sprayer (16 liters capacity) to do a foliar spray.
What happens if the tea isn't used within 8 hours?
The population of microbes decreases and it becomes less effective.
What happens if the brewing process is interrupted?
It really depends on how long the process has been interrupted. Generally, you would just start the process again.
What equipment do I use to apply the compost tea?
You may use a watering can or a backpack sprayer with 16 liters capacity.
Why do I have to use a backpack sprayer?
The backpack sprayers have a different type of nozzle that will not clog when applying compost tea and the pressure is not more than 20 psi.
Can I spray this through a hose canister sprayer?
Generally, no. If you have untreated water then you can. It has to do with the chlorine in the water that will kill all the microbes.
What time of year is best to use the compost tea?
During the growing season or anytime when night time temperatures are above 40 degrees.
How long do the microbes live after I apply them?
If the living conditions are right, the microbes will continue to live and reproduce.
Can I apply too much tea and do damage to my soil or plants?
No.
Can it hurt my pets?
No. In fact it can removed and suppressed bad odors if sprayed over pets manure.
Does it make a difference of what kind of water I use? (tap, bottled, pond, etc.)
Yes, it needs to be water that doesn't have chemicals in it. If you are using treated water, you need to stock in a container for 1 day. This will degas (remove the chlorine from) the water.
Does the machine have other uses?
NO.
Why should I buy your machine over other models available in the marketplace?
Our machines are not only efficient in increasing microbe populations from 100-500% but also is a minimum of parts, very easy to clean, the prices are very competitive and we have good customer support.
How do I take care of my machine?
After each brewing remove the entire agitator unit out of the bucket. This keeps the tea out of the pipes, so biofilm does not buildup. With biofilm buildup, the next time a brew is made, it would contaminate the integrity of the tea. Gently scrub and wash the entire agitator unit and bucket with a fine scrubbing pad. Avoid using soaps and detergents. Wash only with clean water. Wash oll the filters gently. Rinse the inside of the bucket and the barrels and dry thoroughly. When not in use, always empty, clean and dry the unit. Keep and store in a cool dry place.
Can I use my own vermicompost or vermicast?
Yes, you can use your own vermicompost or vermicast, but because we haven't test the quality of your compost, we don't know the biology that you have. The machines replicate only the biology they start with which can be beneficial or not. The quality of compost tea produced will largely depend on the quality of compost material and the brewing equipment.
BREWER MODEL 30 LITERS CAPACITY
Brewer Output (volume of concentrated compost tea) 30 liters
Total Volume of Solution (Mixture) per brewing 480 liters (volume of resulting mixture of 30 liter concentrated compost tea and water at 1:15 dilution good for 1 hectare
Estimated Cost per Brewing
2 kgs vermicast @ P25/kg P50.00
1 kg brown sugar @ P30/kg 30.00
Energy Cost (electricity) 20.00
_______________________________________
TOTAL COST P100.00 per hectare spray!!!
Total Estimated Cost P100
_____________________ = _______ = P3.35 per liter Concenrated Compost Tea
Brewer Output 30 L
18 liters capacity area coverage 1/2 hectare
30 liters capacity area coverage 1 hectare
50 liters capacity area coverage 1.5 hectare
Frequently Asked QuestionsWhat is compost tea?
Compost tea is an aerobic water solution that has extracted the microbe population from compost along with the nutrients. In simple terms, it is a concentrated liquid created by a process to increase the numbers of beneficial organisms as an organic approach to plant/soil care.
Why use compost tea?
Compost tea has many benefits. It will make our environment healthier and safer and will put the microbe biology back onto the plants and soil. It recreates the natural environment that plants have evolved through millions of years to thrive.
How to start the process?
Fill the agitator barrels with 2 kilos of Vermicast then pour untreated water up to the level as marked on the bucket. After 24 hours of brewing add 1 kilo brown sugar or mascubado or molasses to the water in the bucket (not inside agitator barrels) This will serve as food for the microbes.
How long does it take to make compost tea in a 30 liter brewer?
It takes 48 to 72 hours by plugging-in the motors.
When do I apply compost tea?
The tea must be used within 8 hours after you have turned the motor off and it has finished brewing. The best time to apply in the day is early morning not later than 9am or late afternoon not earlier than 4pm. Hot day time temperatures are not as effective.
Is compost tea brewed concentrated?
Yes. Dilute 1 liter concentrated compost tea with 15 liters untreated water making a total volume of 16 liters. Dilution can be adjusted from 1:15 to 1:10, 1:5 depending on the plants condition (diseased plant may need higher concentration)
How often should I apply it?
For foliar disease prevention, you can spray the plants just before you would usually have the onset of disease occurring. Then you would spray every 10 days to 2 weeks for about a month. You should monitor what you are seeing on your plants to determine if further spray is needed. For soil application we recommend two times a year. For promoting growth, you could spray weekly or twice a month during the growing season. Frequency and scheduling of applications will vary depending on individual environmental conditions.
How do I know if I have applied enough?
You can't apply too much, although normally you would try to spray both sides of the leaf with the liquid dripping off the leaf. Total coverage is very important. Whatever drips off the leaves will actually help the soil.
How do I apply the compost tea to plants\soil.
You can use a sprinkler can for applying to the soil or use a backpack sprayer (16 liters capacity) to do a foliar spray.
What happens if the tea isn't used within 8 hours?
The population of microbes decreases and it becomes less effective.
What happens if the brewing process is interrupted?
It really depends on how long the process has been interrupted. Generally, you would just start the process again.
What equipment do I use to apply the compost tea?
You may use a watering can or a backpack sprayer with 16 liters capacity.
Why do I have to use a backpack sprayer?
The backpack sprayers have a different type of nozzle that will not clog when applying compost tea and the pressure is not more than 20 psi.
Can I spray this through a hose canister sprayer?
Generally, no. If you have untreated water then you can. It has to do with the chlorine in the water that will kill all the microbes.
What time of year is best to use the compost tea?
During the growing season or anytime when night time temperatures are above 40 degrees.
How long do the microbes live after I apply them?
If the living conditions are right, the microbes will continue to live and reproduce.
Can I apply too much tea and do damage to my soil or plants?
No.
Can it hurt my pets?
No. In fact it can removed and suppressed bad odors if sprayed over pets manure.
Does it make a difference of what kind of water I use? (tap, bottled, pond, etc.)
Yes, it needs to be water that doesn't have chemicals in it. If you are using treated water, you need to stock in a container for 1 day. This will degas (remove the chlorine from) the water.
Does the machine have other uses?
NO.
Why should I buy your machine over other models available in the marketplace?
Our machines are not only efficient in increasing microbe populations from 100-500% but also is a minimum of parts, very easy to clean, the prices are very competitive and we have good customer support.
How do I take care of my machine?
After each brewing remove the entire agitator unit out of the bucket. This keeps the tea out of the pipes, so biofilm does not buildup. With biofilm buildup, the next time a brew is made, it would contaminate the integrity of the tea. Gently scrub and wash the entire agitator unit and bucket with a fine scrubbing pad. Avoid using soaps and detergents. Wash only with clean water. Wash oll the filters gently. Rinse the inside of the bucket and the barrels and dry thoroughly. When not in use, always empty, clean and dry the unit. Keep and store in a cool dry place.
Can I use my own vermicompost or vermicast?
Yes, you can use your own vermicompost or vermicast, but because we haven't test the quality of your compost, we don't know the biology that you have. The machines replicate only the biology they start with which can be beneficial or not. The quality of compost tea produced will largely depend on the quality of compost material and the brewing equipment.
BREWER MODEL 30 LITERS CAPACITY
Brewer Output (volume of concentrated compost tea) 30 liters
Total Volume of Solution (Mixture) per brewing 480 liters (volume of resulting mixture of 30 liter concentrated compost tea and water at 1:15 dilution good for 1 hectare
Estimated Cost per Brewing
2 kgs vermicast @ P25/kg P50.00
1 kg brown sugar @ P30/kg 30.00
Energy Cost (electricity) 20.00
_______________________________________
TOTAL COST P100.00 per hectare spray!!!
Total Estimated Cost P100
_____________________ = _______ = P3.35 per liter Concenrated Compost Tea
Brewer Output 30 L
18 liters capacity area coverage 1/2 hectare
30 liters capacity area coverage 1 hectare
50 liters capacity area coverage 1.5 hectare
FAQ: DELGRO Microbial inoculant Organic Fertilizer
Ano ang microorganisms?
Binubuo ng mga may-BUHAY at hindi mabilang mga kapaki-pakinabang uri ng mikrobyo na s'yang gumagawa at tumutulong sa pag-proseso ng iba’t-ibang klase ng organikong pataba na ang resulta ay walang halong kemikal na “abono”.
Ang sumusunod ay ilan lamang na uri ng aktibong mikrobyo
• Bacteria – ang pinaka aktibo at may napakaraming bilang sa isang pataba o abuno.
• Fungi o amag – ito ay lumulusaw o nagpapabulok sa ibang bagay na hindi kayang gawin ng bacteria gaya ng kahoy.
• Rhizo – kilala bilang N-fixer o PGPR (Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria).
Ano ang DELGRO MICROBIAL INOCULANT (DMI) Organic Fertilizer?
Ang Delgro Microbial Inoculant (DMI) ay isang uri ng organikong pataba na binubuo ng maraming klaseng mabenepisyong bacteria at fungi na nagbibigay ng masustansyang nutrients sa lupa para maging paki-pakinabang sa mga halaman.
Ano ang Microbial Inoculant?
Ito ay isang makabagong prosesong ng pataba sa lupa na ginamitan ng mga microorganisms tulad ng bacteria at fungi kung saan lubos na makatutulong sa pagkakaroon ng malusog na mga pananim at madoble pa ang bilang nito.
Anong klaseng organic substance ang laman ng DMI?
Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, Iron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc, Boron, Cobalt, Molybdenum at Silicon Dioxide
Ilang “strains” o uri ng microorganisms ang DMI?
70 strains po!
Bakit kailangan ng magsasaka gumamit ng DMI?
Ito ay walang taglay na chemical at pesticide na nakakasira sa lupang sinasakahan at kalikasan
Paano gamitin ang DMI?
Ang 1 pack ng DMI ay meron 500 grams powder form organic fertilizers na pwede i-mix sa 200 to 250 liters tubig na walang chlorine at i-spray o idilig gamit ang watering can sa 1 to 3 tons ng mga nabubulok na bagay.
Paano kung hindi agad nagamit ang DMI na naitunaw sa tubig? Dadami ba ang bilang ng microbes?
OPO. 1 pack na 500 grams + 200 to 250 liters tubig walang chlorine + 3 liters molasses + 300 to 400 grams Agri Lime
Saan pede gamitin ang DMI?
Sa lahat ng uring halaman bilang organikong pataba o abuno at vermiculture sa mabilisang pagpapabulok ng mga substrate materials at pagpaparami ng mga bulate.
Paano ang application ng DMI sa lupa at halaman?
Ang DMI na naitunaw sa tubig na walang chlorine ay pwede na itong ihalo sa manure ng mga hayop sa pamamagitan ng pag-ispray o ibabad sa lalagyan at panatilihin ng 2-3 araw bago idilig sa lupa o halaman.
Meron po bang ibang gamit ang DMI bukod sa halaman?
Opo. Pwede din ito gamitin sa mga fishponds sapagkat mabisa din ito magparami ng "zoo at phyto planktons”. At mabilis din ito pang “supressed” sa mga mabahong amoy sa poultry, piggery o basurahan
Paano i-apply ang DMI sa mga mabahong amoy tulad ng basura?
1 kutsarang DMI mix with 2 gallons or 8 liters tubig at i-spray o idilig sa basura
Ano po yung mga lumulutang na white particles sa tubig at bumabara sa sprayer?
Ito po ay Floating Silica (mineral based) serves as binders for bacteria. Huwag itong itapon at sa halip idilig ito sa lupa na may halaman
Gaano kadalas gamitin ang DMI?
Dahil ang DMI ay walang “OVERDOSED” ito’y pwede gamitin ng every week o twice a month?
Makakatipid ba ako kung gagamit ako ng DMI?
Opo. Mahigit 30% to 40% savings pag ginamitan ng DMI ang halaman at madaragdagan pa ang iyong ani.
Palay organic fertilizer comparison for 1 hectare per harvest
Option 1
Vermitea 16 beses mag spray X P100 = 1,600
Plus: Vermicompost 30 sacks X P300 = 9,000
Option 2
DMI 4 packs X P500 = 2,000
Plus: Vermicompost 30 sacks X P300 = 9.000
Option 3
DMI 4 packs X P500 = 2,000
Plus: 1 to 2 tons (1,000 to 2,000 kilos) manure
Option 4
DMI 20 packs X P500 = 10,000
Gaano kalaki o lawak ng lupa ang kayang magamitan ng 500 grams na DMI?
2,500 sq.m. or 0.25 hectare ang kayang gamitan ng DMI pag ito ay nai-mix sa fermented organic manure o vermicast.
Meron po ba kayong katibayan na gumamit ng DMI?
Opo. Rosario Batangas, Candelaria Quezon, Calapan Oriental Mindoro, Roxas, Panit-an Capiz, Guimaras Panay, 1st 2nd & 3rd District of Bohol, Davao, Ozamis at Virac Catanduanes.
Safe ba ito sa tao o sa mga alagang hayop?
Opo. Kahit di sinasadya makain o mainom walang itong masamang epekto sa tao o hayop.
Compatible din ba ang DMI sa Chemical Fertilizers at Pesticides?
Opo. As gradual application o dag-dag bawas
Anong pinagkaiba ng DMI sa ibang organic fertilizers?
• Mabilis ang epekto sa halaman at compost
• Magaan bitbitin
• Malawak ang malalagyan sa agrikultura
• Madaling i-prepare at i-mix
• Walang expiry
• Safe sa tao at hayop at hindi nakakasira ng kalikasan
• Mura, Matipid at Mabisa (3M)
Naka rehistro po ba ito sa Fertilizer and Pesticide Authority (FPA)?
Opo. Ang DMI ay meron FPA License No. 272 Control No. 01-11L-2009
"Ang lupa ang pakainin, hindi ang halaman. Pakainin ang lupa at ang lupa ang magpapakain sa halaman”
Ano ang microorganisms?
Binubuo ng mga may-BUHAY at hindi mabilang mga kapaki-pakinabang uri ng mikrobyo na s'yang gumagawa at tumutulong sa pag-proseso ng iba’t-ibang klase ng organikong pataba na ang resulta ay walang halong kemikal na “abono”.
Ang sumusunod ay ilan lamang na uri ng aktibong mikrobyo
• Bacteria – ang pinaka aktibo at may napakaraming bilang sa isang pataba o abuno.
• Fungi o amag – ito ay lumulusaw o nagpapabulok sa ibang bagay na hindi kayang gawin ng bacteria gaya ng kahoy.
• Rhizo – kilala bilang N-fixer o PGPR (Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria).
Ano ang DELGRO MICROBIAL INOCULANT (DMI) Organic Fertilizer?
Ang Delgro Microbial Inoculant (DMI) ay isang uri ng organikong pataba na binubuo ng maraming klaseng mabenepisyong bacteria at fungi na nagbibigay ng masustansyang nutrients sa lupa para maging paki-pakinabang sa mga halaman.
Ano ang Microbial Inoculant?
Ito ay isang makabagong prosesong ng pataba sa lupa na ginamitan ng mga microorganisms tulad ng bacteria at fungi kung saan lubos na makatutulong sa pagkakaroon ng malusog na mga pananim at madoble pa ang bilang nito.
Anong klaseng organic substance ang laman ng DMI?
Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, Iron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc, Boron, Cobalt, Molybdenum at Silicon Dioxide
Ilang “strains” o uri ng microorganisms ang DMI?
70 strains po!
Bakit kailangan ng magsasaka gumamit ng DMI?
Ito ay walang taglay na chemical at pesticide na nakakasira sa lupang sinasakahan at kalikasan
Paano gamitin ang DMI?
Ang 1 pack ng DMI ay meron 500 grams powder form organic fertilizers na pwede i-mix sa 200 to 250 liters tubig na walang chlorine at i-spray o idilig gamit ang watering can sa 1 to 3 tons ng mga nabubulok na bagay.
Paano kung hindi agad nagamit ang DMI na naitunaw sa tubig? Dadami ba ang bilang ng microbes?
OPO. 1 pack na 500 grams + 200 to 250 liters tubig walang chlorine + 3 liters molasses + 300 to 400 grams Agri Lime
Saan pede gamitin ang DMI?
Sa lahat ng uring halaman bilang organikong pataba o abuno at vermiculture sa mabilisang pagpapabulok ng mga substrate materials at pagpaparami ng mga bulate.
Paano ang application ng DMI sa lupa at halaman?
Ang DMI na naitunaw sa tubig na walang chlorine ay pwede na itong ihalo sa manure ng mga hayop sa pamamagitan ng pag-ispray o ibabad sa lalagyan at panatilihin ng 2-3 araw bago idilig sa lupa o halaman.
Meron po bang ibang gamit ang DMI bukod sa halaman?
Opo. Pwede din ito gamitin sa mga fishponds sapagkat mabisa din ito magparami ng "zoo at phyto planktons”. At mabilis din ito pang “supressed” sa mga mabahong amoy sa poultry, piggery o basurahan
Paano i-apply ang DMI sa mga mabahong amoy tulad ng basura?
1 kutsarang DMI mix with 2 gallons or 8 liters tubig at i-spray o idilig sa basura
Ano po yung mga lumulutang na white particles sa tubig at bumabara sa sprayer?
Ito po ay Floating Silica (mineral based) serves as binders for bacteria. Huwag itong itapon at sa halip idilig ito sa lupa na may halaman
Gaano kadalas gamitin ang DMI?
Dahil ang DMI ay walang “OVERDOSED” ito’y pwede gamitin ng every week o twice a month?
Makakatipid ba ako kung gagamit ako ng DMI?
Opo. Mahigit 30% to 40% savings pag ginamitan ng DMI ang halaman at madaragdagan pa ang iyong ani.
Palay organic fertilizer comparison for 1 hectare per harvest
Option 1
Vermitea 16 beses mag spray X P100 = 1,600
Plus: Vermicompost 30 sacks X P300 = 9,000
Option 2
DMI 4 packs X P500 = 2,000
Plus: Vermicompost 30 sacks X P300 = 9.000
Option 3
DMI 4 packs X P500 = 2,000
Plus: 1 to 2 tons (1,000 to 2,000 kilos) manure
Option 4
DMI 20 packs X P500 = 10,000
Gaano kalaki o lawak ng lupa ang kayang magamitan ng 500 grams na DMI?
2,500 sq.m. or 0.25 hectare ang kayang gamitan ng DMI pag ito ay nai-mix sa fermented organic manure o vermicast.
Meron po ba kayong katibayan na gumamit ng DMI?
Opo. Rosario Batangas, Candelaria Quezon, Calapan Oriental Mindoro, Roxas, Panit-an Capiz, Guimaras Panay, 1st 2nd & 3rd District of Bohol, Davao, Ozamis at Virac Catanduanes.
Safe ba ito sa tao o sa mga alagang hayop?
Opo. Kahit di sinasadya makain o mainom walang itong masamang epekto sa tao o hayop.
Compatible din ba ang DMI sa Chemical Fertilizers at Pesticides?
Opo. As gradual application o dag-dag bawas
Anong pinagkaiba ng DMI sa ibang organic fertilizers?
• Mabilis ang epekto sa halaman at compost
• Magaan bitbitin
• Malawak ang malalagyan sa agrikultura
• Madaling i-prepare at i-mix
• Walang expiry
• Safe sa tao at hayop at hindi nakakasira ng kalikasan
• Mura, Matipid at Mabisa (3M)
Naka rehistro po ba ito sa Fertilizer and Pesticide Authority (FPA)?
Opo. Ang DMI ay meron FPA License No. 272 Control No. 01-11L-2009
"Ang lupa ang pakainin, hindi ang halaman. Pakainin ang lupa at ang lupa ang magpapakain sa halaman”
What is organic farming?
Organic Farming is a technique used in farming without the use of any chemicals or synthetics. Aim of organic farming is to produce crops which have the highest nutritional values with least impact on nature. Crop rotation, green manure, use of natural fertilizers and biological pest control form the crux of organic farming. It is a proactive ecology management strategy. This strategy enhances the fertility of the soil, prevents soil erosion and at the same time protects the humans and animal kingdom from the side-effects of chemicals and synthetics. Many of the farm products, like, vegetables, fruit, herbs, meat, milk, eggs, etc. are produced organically by some farmers.
Is organic food more nutritious than conventional food?
The definitive study has not been done, mainly because of the multitude of variables involved in making a fair comparison between organically grown and conventionally grown food. These include crop variety, time after harvest, post-harvest handling, and even soil type and climate, which can have significant effects on nutritional quality. However, organic food is far less likely to contain pesticide residues than conventional food.
Is organic food safe?
Yes. Organic food is as safe to consume as any other kind of food. Just as with any kind of produce, consumers should wash before consuming to ensure maximum cleanliness. As cited above, organic produce contains significantly lower levels of pesticide residues than conventional produce. It is a common misconception that organic food could be at greater risk of E. coli contamination because of raw manure application although conventional farmers commonly apply tons of raw manure as well with no regulation whatsoever.
Why does organic cost more?
The cost of organic food is higher than that of conventional food because the organic price tag more closely reflects the true cost of growing the food: substituting labor and intensive management for chemicals, the health and environmental costs of which are borne by society. These costs include cleanup of polluted water and remediation of pesticide contamination. Prices for organic foods include costs of growing, harvesting, transportation and storage. In the case of processed foods, processing and packaging costs are also included.
Organically produced foods must meet stricter regulations governing all these steps than conventional foods. The intensive management and labor used in organic production are frequently (though not always) more expensive than the chemicals routinely used on conventional farms. There is mounting evidence that if all the indirect costs of conventional food production were factored into the price of food, organic foods would cost the same, or, more likely, be cheaper than conventional food. Cost, however, is very dependent upon market venue and consumer product choice. It is possible to consume a moderately priced diet of organic foods by purchasing directly from farmers at venues such as farmers markets, and by choosing unprocessed organically grown foods at the grocery store.
Are organic yields lower?
Based on 154 growing seasons’ worth of data on various crops, organic crops yielded 95% of crops grown under conventional, high-input conditions. Growers who go through the 3-year transition period from conventional to organic management usually experience an initial decrease in yields, until soil microbes are re-established and nutrient cycling is in place, at which point yields return to previous levels.
Advantages of Organic Farming
The most important of the advantages of organic farming is that it maintains the life of the soil, not only for the current generation, but also for the future generations. Water pollution is reduced with organic farming. Most of the times after it rains, the water from the fields, which contains chemicals, gets drained into the rivers. This pollutes the water bodies. In organic farming, since no chemicals or synthetics are used, water pollution reduces as well.
Organic farming helps in building richer soil. Rich soil is obtained by intelligently rotating crops. The rich soil helps in plant growth. The rate of soil erosion is reduced drastically. A French study has revealed that the nutritional quality and micro-nutrients are present in higher quantities in organically produced crops. The micro-nutrients promote good health.
Organically grown food tastes better too. The overall cost of cultivating the crops reduces as the farmers use green manure or worm farming to replenish the lost nutrients of the soil. The other option that the farmers use, is to grow legumes in rotation with the other crops.
The life of organically grown plants is longer than the plants cultivated by traditional methods. Organically grown crop is more drought tolerant. The chemical fertilizers cause the plant to ripen fast. When the crop does not get water it withers and dies, which is not the case with organic crops.
Disadvantages of Organic Farming
Along with the pros of organic farming, there are certain cons of organic farming too. The first disadvantage of organic farming is low productivity. With the highly developed chemicals and machinery, the farmer is able to multiply his harvest manifold times. The organic farmers use the cultivation method as opposed to drilling method used by the traditional farmers. The cultivated soil is prone to wind and water erosion. The traditional farmers opine that direct drilling does not cause any disharmony in the soil structure.
The next argument, which goes against organic farming, is that the organically produced food is expensive. The cost is very often 50-100 percent more than the traditional food. The other valid argument is that organic food is not always available. There is a reason behind that.
The organic farmers grow crops in accordance to the season. Neither do they artificially grow any crop nor do they extend the life of the plant or use chemicals, synthetics or pesticides. Therefore, oranges will be found only in winters and mangoes only in summer. Looking at it from the health benefits point of view, there is no doubt that you will benefit if you eat a particular food item, when it is actually in season.
After weighing the pros and cons of organic farming, it is noticed, that the pros of organic farming outweigh the cons of organic farming. It is therefore best to consume organically grown food, although a bit expensive.
Organic Farming in the Philippines
Below is an interview of Gil Carandang, organic farming advocate and the President of the Independent Organic Inspectors Association of the Philippines (IOIAP), an organization composed of six members who are accredited by ECOCERT, a German certifying organization, by Marid Agri-Business Digest. Mr. Carandang can be reached at Herbaria Farms, km 59, Brgy Burol, Calamba City, Laguna. You can also send him an email at herbanafarms@yahoo.com
In the Philippines, the term “organic farming” is very loosely used. What is really the true meaning of the term?
It evolves on three issues. One is the non-usage of chemical inputs in terms of fertilizer, pesticides, herbicides, etc. Second, it has to be non-GMO—meaning, no use of genetically modified organisms. The third one, which is the most important, is the issue of sustainability. This means that any farming system that is based on non-renewable resource like petroleum, cannot be sustainable. In other words, our farming system should not create pollution or poison. Everything should be recycled.
But some people say it’s so hard to prove that you are really doing 100% organic farming?
This is where the certification comes in. Like I can be 100% organic by practice but if my farm is in Davao, for example, and my neighbor happens to engage in the aerial spray of banana trees, I cannot be certified as organic because I’m contaminated.
Why has this certification issue become complicated?
Basically the problem lies in lobbying. There is a heavy lobbying for chemicals because there is big business in chemicals rather than going organic. Like if I teach you how to make your own fertilizer, I have no more business for you. In the same way if I teach you how to make botanical pesticide, I have no business for you. We are more pro-poor, pro-farmer. This is not just an issue of clean environment, it has also become a political issue. We teach the farmers how to breed hybrid inbred seeds so that they don’t need to buy anymore from the multinational seed companies. We have to understand that whoever controls the seeds controls everything. Those who control the seeds, they also control the pesticides, among many other things.
How organized is the organic farming industry?
It has a lot of fragments but there are also a surge of growing interest in organic farming. Like now, there is already an organization called Go-Organic Philippines. During the late ’90s, there were very few participants. Now there are many people going into this. Remember, we now have Executive Order 481, which aims to promote the organic farming industry in the country. I think they have a proposal of putting in excess of Php6oo million until 2010. So a lot of people really got interested.
Historically speaking, for the industry to grow, there has to be government help in the form of subsidy. If the government subsidizes the chemical industry they should also subsidize the organic industry. Secondly, the industry should be able to penetrate the mainstream supermarkets. Now, organic products are in supermarkets but it’s very loose. Most of them, they are not even certified.
Do we have any figures to show how many people are already engaged in organic farming?
We don’t have a benchmark figure yet, but let me put it this way. When we first proposed to the government, we were asking for 2% to 5% of total arable area to be devoted to organic farming. In terms of arable area, we are looking for about 5,000 to 7,000 hectares. There are many people who are going into this—like organic rice farming, but it’s only sold in the market as a regular rice.
One of my targets is to create a book or a booklet. It’s like a consumer guide on organic and natural foods. Like for example, coconuts are organic by neglect. Nobody uses fertilizers and sprays on the coconut tree, the same is true with saging na saba and talbos ng kamote. So there are really identifiable produce that are really grown naturally.
Is organic farming difficult to do?
It’s not that difficult than it was 10-15 years ago. Before I had poor yield. But now, after learning the technologies from the Japanese and the Koreans, and when I studied in the States, I found out it wasn’t that difficult. I said to myself, they were doing 10,000 acres of organic carrots in the US, why cannot we do it here? I am promoting three basic technologies. I developed a technique called 10-day composting without turning the pile. Second, I’ve learned a technique in the US — you only use two kilos of compost and it can fertilize one hectare of land.
Third, I’ve learned from the Japanese and the Koreans how to culture beneficial microorganisms. So I culture my own. We don’t have to buy microbes. We also learned how to do valuable extraction. Like if I need liquid nitrogen, instead of buying urea or ammonium sulfate, we just ferment wastes like fish scraps. We also extract malunggay. In the same way, if we want to make pesticides, we use the neem tree, kakawate and many other things. So these technologies are now available.
How would you describe the Philippine organic market?
There is always a market. In my experience, the defined market is composed of the health conscious people—these people have heard the sad stories of people who got poisoned by chemicals and pesticide. Then perhaps 30% of our market is composed of cancer patients. Because if you’re sick, you don’t want to ingest more poison. The third are the expats and the balikbayans — these are the people who are more aware of the benefits of consuming organic products. But I must agree that those who can afford to buy these still belong to the AB market.
How much are these products sold?
Internationally, organic produce are 20%-30% more expensive than the traditional produce. Here, it all depends. It can be 1,000% more or less. Let me give you an example. You can buy a conventional pechay in the market for P20/kilo. Some organic markets will see an organic pechay for P40/kilo, some would even sell for as much as P120/kilo. There are no standards or set rules. It’s a law of supply and demand. If it’s an unusual product, I can price that heavily. Lettuce, for example. The wholesale price of an organic lettuce is P8o-P1oo/kilo, which means that the retail price should be double. So it’s sold at a range of P120-P240/kilo.
How do you see the organic farming industry five to ten years from now?
I’ll still say the same thing that I said several years ago: whether you like it or not, the norm of the future is to go organic because we have no choice. If we do not take care of the environment, we are at the losing end. We kill the soil, we kill the environment and we eventually kill ourselves. There is no other way. If we want to survive as human species, we have to adapt a sustainable approach to food production and one of them is organic farming.
Five years, from now, it’s a matter of mainstreaming. In the US now, organic produce are in the mainstream market. You go to a supermarket you will find some organic products. When I left the States, there is no such thing—only specialty shops and stores. But right now, Walmart has announced that they will go organic. Here, it is through government subsidy and mainstreaming in the supermarkets that will spell the progress of the organic farming industry.
And now, because of the financial crisis, this is my belief. You see, we have organized ourselves— this is an adaptation of what they did in the US which is called the 4H club. It was developed in the US during the Great Depression. The main philosophy of this is really for people in the city to try to go to the countryside and produce their own food.
Who needs to drink softdrinks and all the non-essentials in time of deep crisis? We have to go back to the basics. So going back to the countryside is really a way to curb our financial crisis. And going organic is one of the ways not only to help protect our environment and maintain good health. It’s also a way to sustain food production and empower our farmers!
According to Antonio and Elizabeth de Castro of Earthworm Sanctuary
Maraming iba’t ibang paraan ng pag-aalaga ng bulate at paggawa ng pataba mula sa bulate. Ang sumusunod na pamamaraan ang ginagamit sa Earthworm Sanctuary sa Tanay, Simple lamang ito at mura.
Dapat laging isa-isip ang tatlong prinsipyo:
1. Ang Inang Kalikasan ang gawin mong guro.
2. Ang kinakain ng bulate ay ang mga bakterya na tumutubo sa nabubulok na mga materyales.
3. Ang matabang lupa ay marami at iba’t ibang uri ng mikro-organismo.
Ang Inang Kalikasan ang gawin mong guro
Ang mga bulate ay isa sa mga pinakamatandang organismo sa balat ng lupa. Walang masyadong pagbabago sa kanila sa loob ng milyon-milyong taon. Kung walang mga bulate, malamang na malaki ang pagkakaiba ng ating daigdig.
Ang pamamaraang ginagamit sa Earthworm Sanctuary ay pagkopya lamang sa pamamaraang ginamit ng Inang Kalikasan sa loob ng milyon-milyong taon.
Ang bulate ay karaniwang matatagpuan sa madilim at basang lugar, kung saan maraming nabubulok na mga bagay tulad ng mga dahon, dayami, damo, pati na dumi ng mga hayop tulad ng baka, kabayo at kalabaw.
Ginagaya ang ganitong pamamaraan sa Earthworm Sanctuary, pero sa mas kontroladong sitwasyon. Ang mahahalagang sangkap ay ito:
1. Dapat ay maraming materyales na mabubulok. Halos kahit ano pwede, laluna basura mula sa kusina at palengke
2. Panatilihing medyo basa. Huwag pabayaang matuyo.
3. Panatilihing malamig ang lugar, may lilim, at may sapat na hangin.
4. Iwasang may matitipong tubig sa lugar
5. Protektahan mula sa pwedeng kumain sa bulate, tulad ng daga, manok, palaka at butiki.
Ganyan ang katangian ng sitwasyon sa loob ng gubat, kung saan pag hinalungkat mo ang tumpok ng dahon at nabubulok na materyales, may mga bulate sa ilalim.
Matuto tayo sa Inang Kalikasan
Ang pagkain ng bulate ay mga bakterya na tumutubo sa nabubulok na materyales.
Ang pagkain ng mga bulate ay galing sa mga bakterya at fungus na siyang nagpapabulok sa mga materyales na nabubulok. Hindi ang mga bulate ang nagpapabulok ng mga dahon at damo, kundi ang mga bakterya.
Sa pagdami ng mga mikrobyo, bumibilis ang pagkabulok ng mga materyales, at umiinit ito. Kapag medyo lumamig na ang tumpok, ito na ang panahon para ilagay ang mga bulate sa kompost.
Laging tiyaking medyo basa ang tumpok. Ito’y kailangan ng mga bulate at ng mga mikrobyo. Dahil ang mga mikrobyo ang kinakain ng bulate, hindi into namimili kung anong materyales ang ating gagamitin. Kahit lumang dyaryo, huwag lang nakakalason ang tinta. Kaya gamitin ang anumang meron ka – dayami, dahon at damo, at dumi ng mga hayop.
Pero ang pinakamaganda ay kung iba’t ibang klase ng mga tanim at dumi ng hayop, para halo-halo ang tumpok ng kompos. Ang matabang lupa ay marami at iba’t ibang klaseng mikro-organismo
"Ang lupa ang pakainin, hindi ang halaman. Pakainin ang lupa at ang lupa ang magpapakain sa halaman".
Ito ang kasabihan ng mga gumagamit ng organikong pamamaraan ng pagsasaka. Ibig sabihin na ang susi sa maayos na pagsasaka ay ang matabang lupa. Ang lupa ay dapat buhay na buhay, punong-puno ng napakarami at iba’t ibang klase ng nga mga maliliit na organismo.
Ang paggamit ng NPK ( Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium ) ay may magandang resulta sa una, pero sa pagtagal ay namamatay ang lupa dahil sa sobrang kemikal at langis sa urea. Mahalaga ang NPK para sa mga tanim, pero ito ay pinakamabisa kung kasama ng lahat pa ng ibang mga sangkap ng lupa.
Ang mga mikro-organismo sa lupa ang tumutulong para magamit ng halaman ang NPK at iba pang sustansya. Kahit isang kutsara lamang ng vermicompost na dumi ng bulate ay may milyon-milyong mikro-organismo kasama ng iba’t iba pang hormone, enzyme at regulator ng pagtubo ng halaman. Kaya ang tawag sa vermicompost ay “ang pinakakompletong organikong pataba ng Inang Kalikasan.”
Pag vermicompost ang ginamit mong pataba, muling nabubuhay ang lupa. Sa paulit-ulit na paggamit nito, lalong nabubuhay at tumataba ang lupa. Ang habol natin ay umabot sa sitwasyon na pag dumakot tayo ng lupa sa ating taniman ay may mga bulateng namumuhay dito.
Para maging masustansya ang lupa, gumamit ng iba’t ibang ipakakain sa mga bulate. Gumamit ng mga halamang may nitrogen tulad ng kakawati, ipil ipil, akasya, malunggay, mani, munggo atbp. Makakauha ng potassium sa saging – sa puno, sdahon at balat na pinagtalupan. Ang dumi ng hayop ay maraming nitrogen at phosphorus.
Pag-aalaga ng bulate: Hakbang-hakbang na gabay
Hindi naman kailangang sundin ng istrikto ang mga hakbang na ito. Basta’t alam mo ang mga prinsipyo, pwede mong iangkop sa mas mabisa o mas komportable sa iyo. Sa Earthworm Sanctuary, ang bulateng aming ginagamit ay African Nightcrawlers (Eudrilus eugeniae).
Ang kakailanganin mo ay ang sumusunod:
a. 16 hollow blocks
b. Plastic o plastic na sako. 3 metrong haba at 1 metrong lapad
c. Lambat na ¼ pulgada ang butas. 3.5 metrong haba at 1.5 metrong lapad
Sundan ang mga sumusunod na hakbang:
1. Pumili ng angkop na lugar
-Dapat ay patag, malilim, at may drainage
-Kung wala kang malilim na lugar, magtayo ng talukbong
-Di dapat malapit sa maingay at matagtag na makinarya
2. Maglatag ng plastik na banig
3. Ayusin ang mga hollow block na nakapatong sa plastik.
-Tatlong hollow block ang lapad at lima ang haba.
-Hindi kailangan isemento ang mga hollow block, pero kung gusto mong isemento, siguraduhing may lagusan ng tubig (drainage).
4. Punuin ng kompos hanggang umapaw ang lalagyan.
-Gumamit ng halo-halong materyales: dahon, damo, dumi ng hayop, basura sa kusina.
-Siguraduhing ang kompos ay lampas na sa yugtong mainit pa ito, at mukha nang lupa pero may mga tipak-tipak pang bahagi.
-Makakatulong na lagyan ng maliliit na sanga para mahanginan.
-Maaalis ang mga ito pag di na kailangan.
5. Kung wala kang kompos, gumawa ka muna ng kompos sa loob ng lalagyan. Tatagal ito ng 2-3 linggo.
-Lagyan ng mga materyales na nabubulok, at panatilihing basa at nasa lilim. Pwedeng takpan ng tarpaulin.
-Huwag ilagay ang mga bulate hanggat di pa lampas sa yugto ng pagiging mainit, at nangingitim na ang kulay at nadudurog na.
6. Takpan ang kompos ng tuyong dahon, damo, ipa o dayami para maiwasan ang mga langaw at mabahong amoy.
7. Diligin ng husto ang kompos,pero siguraduhing hindi naiipon ang tubig (may drainage).
8. Ilagay ang mga bulate sa lalagyan
-Ang mga bulate ay dapat may kasamang kompos para sa paglilipat o pansamantalang pagtatago
-Pwedeng magsimula sa isang kilong bulate.
-Ilagay ito kasama ng kompos sa isang kanto ng lalagyan.
-Huwag isabog sa buong lalagyan ang mga bulate.
-Panatilihin silang magkakasama sa kompos.
-Kusang lilipat sa ibang lugar ang mga bulate pag OK na sa kanila ang ibang materyales sa lalagyan.
9. Takpan ang lalagyan ng lambat at lagyan ng pandag-an
-Para hindi liparin ng hangin at para di makain ang mga bulate ng manok, palaka, butiki, daga o iba pang kumakain ng bulate.
10. Diligin ang lalagyan kuing kailangan.
-Ang pinakamagandang gamiting tubig ay galling sa bukal, ulan, ilog o poso. Kung gagamit ng tubig mula sa gripo, patiningin muna sa lalagyang bukas nangbuong araw para mawala ang chlorine.
11. Siguraduhing basa ang lalagyan.
-Huwag pabayaang matuyo. Tingnan 2-3 beses sa isang lingo.
12. Pagkatapos ng isang lingo, may makikita kang dumi ng bulate sa ibabaw ng gilid ng lalagyan.
-Ito ay palatandaang buhay ang mga bulate, kumakain at tumatae.
13. Huwag gambalain ang mga bulate.
-Madaling maapektuhan ang kanilang pagkain at pagpaparami kung laging hinahawakan, at kung maingay sa paligid.
14. Pagkatapos ng 2-3 buwan, ang lalagyan ay punong-puno na ng dumi ng bulate at pwede nang anihin.
-Huwag maghintay hanggang makain ang lahat ng mga materyales at dumi na lamang ng bulate ang natitira. Walang nilalang na gustong mabuhay kasama lamang ang kanilang dumi.
15. Maghanda ng pangalawang lalagyan.
-Ito ay para ihanda ang kompos na paglilipatan ng mga bulate pagkatapos silang ihiwalay sa kanilang dumi sa unang lalagyan.
Maraming iba’t ibang paraan ng pag-aalaga ng bulate at paggawa ng pataba mula sa bulate. Ang sumusunod na pamamaraan ang ginagamit sa Earthworm Sanctuary sa Tanay, Simple lamang ito at mura.
Dapat laging isa-isip ang tatlong prinsipyo:
1. Ang Inang Kalikasan ang gawin mong guro.
2. Ang kinakain ng bulate ay ang mga bakterya na tumutubo sa nabubulok na mga materyales.
3. Ang matabang lupa ay marami at iba’t ibang uri ng mikro-organismo.
Ang Inang Kalikasan ang gawin mong guro
Ang mga bulate ay isa sa mga pinakamatandang organismo sa balat ng lupa. Walang masyadong pagbabago sa kanila sa loob ng milyon-milyong taon. Kung walang mga bulate, malamang na malaki ang pagkakaiba ng ating daigdig.
Ang pamamaraang ginagamit sa Earthworm Sanctuary ay pagkopya lamang sa pamamaraang ginamit ng Inang Kalikasan sa loob ng milyon-milyong taon.
Ang bulate ay karaniwang matatagpuan sa madilim at basang lugar, kung saan maraming nabubulok na mga bagay tulad ng mga dahon, dayami, damo, pati na dumi ng mga hayop tulad ng baka, kabayo at kalabaw.
Ginagaya ang ganitong pamamaraan sa Earthworm Sanctuary, pero sa mas kontroladong sitwasyon. Ang mahahalagang sangkap ay ito:
1. Dapat ay maraming materyales na mabubulok. Halos kahit ano pwede, laluna basura mula sa kusina at palengke
2. Panatilihing medyo basa. Huwag pabayaang matuyo.
3. Panatilihing malamig ang lugar, may lilim, at may sapat na hangin.
4. Iwasang may matitipong tubig sa lugar
5. Protektahan mula sa pwedeng kumain sa bulate, tulad ng daga, manok, palaka at butiki.
Ganyan ang katangian ng sitwasyon sa loob ng gubat, kung saan pag hinalungkat mo ang tumpok ng dahon at nabubulok na materyales, may mga bulate sa ilalim.
Matuto tayo sa Inang Kalikasan
Ang pagkain ng bulate ay mga bakterya na tumutubo sa nabubulok na materyales.
Ang pagkain ng mga bulate ay galing sa mga bakterya at fungus na siyang nagpapabulok sa mga materyales na nabubulok. Hindi ang mga bulate ang nagpapabulok ng mga dahon at damo, kundi ang mga bakterya.
Sa pagdami ng mga mikrobyo, bumibilis ang pagkabulok ng mga materyales, at umiinit ito. Kapag medyo lumamig na ang tumpok, ito na ang panahon para ilagay ang mga bulate sa kompost.
Laging tiyaking medyo basa ang tumpok. Ito’y kailangan ng mga bulate at ng mga mikrobyo. Dahil ang mga mikrobyo ang kinakain ng bulate, hindi into namimili kung anong materyales ang ating gagamitin. Kahit lumang dyaryo, huwag lang nakakalason ang tinta. Kaya gamitin ang anumang meron ka – dayami, dahon at damo, at dumi ng mga hayop.
Pero ang pinakamaganda ay kung iba’t ibang klase ng mga tanim at dumi ng hayop, para halo-halo ang tumpok ng kompos. Ang matabang lupa ay marami at iba’t ibang klaseng mikro-organismo
"Ang lupa ang pakainin, hindi ang halaman. Pakainin ang lupa at ang lupa ang magpapakain sa halaman".
Ito ang kasabihan ng mga gumagamit ng organikong pamamaraan ng pagsasaka. Ibig sabihin na ang susi sa maayos na pagsasaka ay ang matabang lupa. Ang lupa ay dapat buhay na buhay, punong-puno ng napakarami at iba’t ibang klase ng nga mga maliliit na organismo.
Ang paggamit ng NPK ( Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium ) ay may magandang resulta sa una, pero sa pagtagal ay namamatay ang lupa dahil sa sobrang kemikal at langis sa urea. Mahalaga ang NPK para sa mga tanim, pero ito ay pinakamabisa kung kasama ng lahat pa ng ibang mga sangkap ng lupa.
Ang mga mikro-organismo sa lupa ang tumutulong para magamit ng halaman ang NPK at iba pang sustansya. Kahit isang kutsara lamang ng vermicompost na dumi ng bulate ay may milyon-milyong mikro-organismo kasama ng iba’t iba pang hormone, enzyme at regulator ng pagtubo ng halaman. Kaya ang tawag sa vermicompost ay “ang pinakakompletong organikong pataba ng Inang Kalikasan.”
Pag vermicompost ang ginamit mong pataba, muling nabubuhay ang lupa. Sa paulit-ulit na paggamit nito, lalong nabubuhay at tumataba ang lupa. Ang habol natin ay umabot sa sitwasyon na pag dumakot tayo ng lupa sa ating taniman ay may mga bulateng namumuhay dito.
Para maging masustansya ang lupa, gumamit ng iba’t ibang ipakakain sa mga bulate. Gumamit ng mga halamang may nitrogen tulad ng kakawati, ipil ipil, akasya, malunggay, mani, munggo atbp. Makakauha ng potassium sa saging – sa puno, sdahon at balat na pinagtalupan. Ang dumi ng hayop ay maraming nitrogen at phosphorus.
Pag-aalaga ng bulate: Hakbang-hakbang na gabay
Hindi naman kailangang sundin ng istrikto ang mga hakbang na ito. Basta’t alam mo ang mga prinsipyo, pwede mong iangkop sa mas mabisa o mas komportable sa iyo. Sa Earthworm Sanctuary, ang bulateng aming ginagamit ay African Nightcrawlers (Eudrilus eugeniae).
Ang kakailanganin mo ay ang sumusunod:
a. 16 hollow blocks
b. Plastic o plastic na sako. 3 metrong haba at 1 metrong lapad
c. Lambat na ¼ pulgada ang butas. 3.5 metrong haba at 1.5 metrong lapad
Sundan ang mga sumusunod na hakbang:
1. Pumili ng angkop na lugar
-Dapat ay patag, malilim, at may drainage
-Kung wala kang malilim na lugar, magtayo ng talukbong
-Di dapat malapit sa maingay at matagtag na makinarya
2. Maglatag ng plastik na banig
3. Ayusin ang mga hollow block na nakapatong sa plastik.
-Tatlong hollow block ang lapad at lima ang haba.
-Hindi kailangan isemento ang mga hollow block, pero kung gusto mong isemento, siguraduhing may lagusan ng tubig (drainage).
4. Punuin ng kompos hanggang umapaw ang lalagyan.
-Gumamit ng halo-halong materyales: dahon, damo, dumi ng hayop, basura sa kusina.
-Siguraduhing ang kompos ay lampas na sa yugtong mainit pa ito, at mukha nang lupa pero may mga tipak-tipak pang bahagi.
-Makakatulong na lagyan ng maliliit na sanga para mahanginan.
-Maaalis ang mga ito pag di na kailangan.
5. Kung wala kang kompos, gumawa ka muna ng kompos sa loob ng lalagyan. Tatagal ito ng 2-3 linggo.
-Lagyan ng mga materyales na nabubulok, at panatilihing basa at nasa lilim. Pwedeng takpan ng tarpaulin.
-Huwag ilagay ang mga bulate hanggat di pa lampas sa yugto ng pagiging mainit, at nangingitim na ang kulay at nadudurog na.
6. Takpan ang kompos ng tuyong dahon, damo, ipa o dayami para maiwasan ang mga langaw at mabahong amoy.
7. Diligin ng husto ang kompos,pero siguraduhing hindi naiipon ang tubig (may drainage).
8. Ilagay ang mga bulate sa lalagyan
-Ang mga bulate ay dapat may kasamang kompos para sa paglilipat o pansamantalang pagtatago
-Pwedeng magsimula sa isang kilong bulate.
-Ilagay ito kasama ng kompos sa isang kanto ng lalagyan.
-Huwag isabog sa buong lalagyan ang mga bulate.
-Panatilihin silang magkakasama sa kompos.
-Kusang lilipat sa ibang lugar ang mga bulate pag OK na sa kanila ang ibang materyales sa lalagyan.
9. Takpan ang lalagyan ng lambat at lagyan ng pandag-an
-Para hindi liparin ng hangin at para di makain ang mga bulate ng manok, palaka, butiki, daga o iba pang kumakain ng bulate.
10. Diligin ang lalagyan kuing kailangan.
-Ang pinakamagandang gamiting tubig ay galling sa bukal, ulan, ilog o poso. Kung gagamit ng tubig mula sa gripo, patiningin muna sa lalagyang bukas nangbuong araw para mawala ang chlorine.
11. Siguraduhing basa ang lalagyan.
-Huwag pabayaang matuyo. Tingnan 2-3 beses sa isang lingo.
12. Pagkatapos ng isang lingo, may makikita kang dumi ng bulate sa ibabaw ng gilid ng lalagyan.
-Ito ay palatandaang buhay ang mga bulate, kumakain at tumatae.
13. Huwag gambalain ang mga bulate.
-Madaling maapektuhan ang kanilang pagkain at pagpaparami kung laging hinahawakan, at kung maingay sa paligid.
14. Pagkatapos ng 2-3 buwan, ang lalagyan ay punong-puno na ng dumi ng bulate at pwede nang anihin.
-Huwag maghintay hanggang makain ang lahat ng mga materyales at dumi na lamang ng bulate ang natitira. Walang nilalang na gustong mabuhay kasama lamang ang kanilang dumi.
15. Maghanda ng pangalawang lalagyan.
-Ito ay para ihanda ang kompos na paglilipatan ng mga bulate pagkatapos silang ihiwalay sa kanilang dumi sa unang lalagyan.
